48 Hours in Singapore

Coming to Singapore after Hong Kong is like arriving at Disneyland after driving through Los Angeles -- it's clean, precise, perfect and a breath of fresh, if humid, air. That's not really a fair comparison, it's just such a dramatic contrast from the incredible scale and concentration of humanity in Hong Kong to the bright and colorful, serenely laid out, beautiful Singapore.

Singapore is an Asian treasure with surprising diversity. I say surprising because, as stated earlier, I arrived here from Hong Kong, and if there was ever a metaphor for diversity, Hong Kong is it. But within a few minutes of walking through Singapore City, I came across more variety of international cuisines than anywhere I've experienced before. Pan-Asian, Indian, European, Cuban, American, British, Turkish, Arabic and countless more. The patrons at all these places likewise from all over the world.

That's when it dawned on me that the real heritage of Singapore -- and Hong Kong -- is its history as an important port of call in international trade and shipping. It's clearly a dominant force in not only their economy, but the very way these cities came to be. As I look out over the vast harbor, hundreds of tankers and container ships lie at anchor in pristine coral-blue waters. This is about the most beautiful harbor I've seen, anchoring the south-eastern tip of the famous Malacca Strait, the world's busiest commercial waterway.

All this helps explain my first impressions of Singapore: a very British Colonial heritage with a unique signature of its own rooted in Pan-Asian culture reflecting influences and culture from Turkey all the way to China.

You know you've arrived somewhere special when, after you leave the fully-carpeted airport (odd thing to point out that, but I don't recall the last time I saw a fully carpeted airport concourse), you hop into the air-conditioned taxi and are whisked comfortably along perhaps the world's most beautiful airport highway. Seriously, every inch of the road from the airport to the city is lined with perfectly trimmed beautiful bougainvillea and tidy gardens, and it feeds directly into the picturesque central business and river districts. Did I just say 'picturesque central business district'? Yes. I did.

Singapore City is one of the most beautiful, walkable and well-laid out cities I've ever seen. From my hotel located across Marina Bay from the Central business district, it's a short walk through perfect parks and convenient (and cool!) underpasses to everything the city has to offer. I picked the Marina Mandarin Hotel for its central location and excellent city/Marina views. Fantastic hotel, with an odd design (more on that in a moment), outstanding rooms and world-class service. However, the whole room-with-a-view thing I didn't really need to worry about, because there are hundreds of perfect vantage points to photograph and experience this city while walking around. What's odd about the design, is the direction the windows are facing, none face the perfect photo opportunity of the central business district, you choose either harbor/marina or city view. It's quite a lean off the balcony to get the shot above!

The Marina Mandarin Hotel was a good deal all-round, rates high on my list. Food prices very reasonable, room outstanding, amenities and location could not be better, then again, it's hard to go too far wrong in Singapore. I'd recommend any of the hotels in the Marina, Riverwalk and Central Districts based on location, though prices can get a bit steep with many of them.

Singapore City is safe, clean (I've said it before, but seriously, this place is clean!) and very approachable on foot. Where in Hong Kong I used my 'business people' tracking skills to follow people who looked like they knew where they were going, in Singapore, firstly, I didn't need to do this because it's easy to find your way around as long as you know where the river is. Secondly, I found that most of the 'suits' I followed were heading for the numerous British pubs located along the river banks - it was, after all, Friday evening! There's quite a drinking/dining scene here which is very focused on the riverbanks. It's very friendly, and quickly becomes very busy as the sun sets.

I first walked along the riverbanks mid afternoon, it was very hot and humid and seemed deserted. As soon as the sun began to set, and a cooling breeze found its way from the straits up along the river, people began to emerge from the myriad shopping malls and skyscrapers and park themselves along the river, whether just sitting there to cool off, or heading out to dinner, it clearly is the lifeblood of this city, a social and scenic mecca for tourists and locals alike.

River taxis are available in abundance and offer a really good value and an outstanding way to see the best of the city from the Marina to about a mile upriver. It's a great and convenient way to scope out all the dining, shopping and scenic places along the way. Another tip (learned in Hong Kong) is that Asian cities are designed for people who like to walk, and there are cool ways to do that and stay out of the hot and humid temperatures, too. Like in Hong Kong, many office building entrances also double as access to myriad air-conditioned and massive shopping malls. Shopping isn't high on my priority list, but these malls sprawl for blocks and blocks, and allow you to walk from place to place without the excessive heat. I discovered a massive mall is actually attached to the hotel I'm staying in too!

Another note about malls here, is that while on the face of it, they may seem modern, western-influenced and sterile, they all have 'secrets.' Central Market Mall, located on the south side of the river (Boat Quay between Circular Road and the river), for example has a basement level that offers a number of excellent local favorite diners, just hole-in-the-wall sized places with a few tables and chairs each in a cool, hidden away environment. Also, to cross many of the busy road intersections, you have to use underpasses which can be simple tunnels, but some are multi-level underground malls full of shops and restaurants directly beneath the city.

The Riverwalk makes a perfect starting point for exploring. Each side of the river's banks is lined with restaurants and attractions, winding through the heart of the city. My favorite place there is Clarke Quay, a historic group of buildings with a colorful history (once the center of shipping and trade in Singapore, now cleaned up and hosting a fantastic array of restaurants and bars). It's quiet and cool during the day, shaded by a system of ornate steel umbrellas and surrounded on the riverside by restaurants and walkways. The Coffee Connoisseur was my choice there, they serve a really good, and cheap afternoon tea with jam and cream scones, small sandwiches and treats. It wasn't afternoon tea at Raffles Hotel (which is four times the price and, without reservations, simply not done), but it was exactly what I needed! When the sun sets, Clarke Quay, like most of the riverwalk area, comes alive with barhoppers and diners. Definitely a must see on any visit here, and easy to find on foot as long as you've found the river!

The city also has a very efficient MRT underground transit system, almost identical in design and operation to the system in Hong Kong. There are just a few stops, each conveniently located at most of the places I wanted to see, providing a good alternative to tourist 'hop-on/hop-off' buses and it's very cheap. I didn't see any tourists down there, just locals. Not sure why, it's a great system, I'd recommend it to anyone.

Back to the cultural diversity represented here, as mentioned, it covers a myriad of nationalities making a really interesting tour around the city somewhat like a tour around the cultures of many regions. First stop: The Arab Quarter, replete with mosques, arab markets and shops centered around Arab Street and wrapping around numerous small and interesting alleyways and side streets.

Next stop, just down Ophir Road from the Arab Quarter is Little India which is similarly authentic in its huge variety of Indian stores and restaurants. A must see there is the Little India Arcade, featuring numerous market and food stands from the region all under one roof.

A short MRT ride from Little India is Chinatown, south of the central business district and yet again, a buzzing hive of backstreets and markets this time very much Chinese in nature! My first stop in Chinatown was the Thian Hock Keng Buddhist Temple, busy with tourists and people in prayer. Just a short walk from there, in dramatic contrast, is the Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple, which is a fantastic brightly colored and lively center, again bustling with all walks of life. Both these are practising Temples, so shoes must be removed at one, and photography limited in both, but well worth a visit.

Weekends are quieter in the cultural districts, best bet is to visit them early morning on weekdays, to experience the hustle and bustle of many different nationalities going about their day, their way!

Orchard Road is generally listed as a must-see on the Singapore to do list, but for me, it's just another collection of huge shopping malls, each bigger and better than the next. If shopping is your focus, this is the place for you! One nice diversion if you tire of the shopping and relatively busier Orchard Road sidewalks, about halfway along Orchard Street is an inconspicuous side street called Emerald Hill Road. It's a fantastic and quiet street featuring a few small restaurants , but primarily a residential street with some excellent examples of old Singapore residences.

Okay, now I have to backtrack. I just finished bashing the shopping malls, then went for a walk and discovered my nirvana. Just across the street from the Adelphi Lifestyles Mall, a block from the Raffles City Mall and also down the street from the City Link Mall, you may find the Funan Digitalife Mall. Five or six floors (hard to track due to more than the usual amount of basement levels) of everything digital under the sun. Computers, televisions, cameras, cameras, cameras and everything in-between. Going there, like I did, to replace the lens cap I lost in Hong Kong, is like going to Ceylon for a cup of tea. Serious overkill. But awesome! Prices were very reasonable, too.

Despite the lack of availability for afternoon tea at Raffles, I had to go there anyway. It reminded me of the Norfolk Hotel in Kenya, the Empress Hotel in Victoria BC and a number of other perfectly situated and lovingly operated classic Victorian era hotels. Splendid, pristine place well worth a look (and only a block or two from the Digitalife Mall!).

I had been concerned that Singapore could be pricey, particularly the cost of dining out. I'm quite frugal in that department and found very reasonable deals almost everywhere I tried. The Singapore Dollar is about 1.37 or so to the US Dollar, so generally things seemed to be on a par with US pricing, if a little cheaper.

Singapore is a vital, thriving city with a relaxing, almost small-town feel to it. Maybe small-town isn't the right description, it's more a feeling of being at home. People are very friendly, the city lends itself to exploration and rewards with rich cultural diversity and beautiful scenery. There's a lot more to explore than I had time for, much of it designed specifically for tourists. the Island of Sentosa, for example, just a few minutes from the heart of the city, is the southernmost tip of the Asian Continent, and offers pristine beaches as well as a variety of theme parks, casinos and attractions. There's also the brand new Sands Casino which, if you know Singapore, you'll note I've excluded it from all my shots - it sits right in front of the city, a massive 3-tower complex with a penthouse level pool that seems to float above the towers. Fantastic stuff I suppose, but not on my itinerary.

The shot I've posted above is taken from Merlion Park, the Merlion being the symbol of Singapore. It's a lovely photo opportunity, and so thought just about every other tourist at the same time! This area, and the Esplanade Bridge just behind it which connects the central business district with the Esplanade Theatres and Concert Hall and other attractions, is teeming with visitors. It's the only area of the city that I found really crowded. From my hotel room I can hear occasional whoops and shouts as if there's a theme park ride close by somewhere along the harbor. The Singapore Flyer, the world's tallest ferris wheel is located here, just behind the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. It's one of the most popular attractions in Asia, which explains a lot about how busy it is down there!

Singapore is a thoroughly enjoyable place to visit, whether you prefer the latest attractions or its fantastic sense of place at the tip of the Asian Continent. One other thing, an article on Singapore wouldn't be quite complete without mentioning it's national carrier, Singapore Airlines. In my experience, the most customer-focused, friendly and exceptional service I've experienced in the air in many years. An outstanding example of how Singapore does things: really, really well.

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